So, you want to start a pop up?
Some 4,278 words of advice.
Despite the majority of this year being one big WTF moment concerning all things pop up, I do have some valuable tips and advice on starting for you. Even if you aren’t particularly interested in starting a pop up, it can benefit you starting your own small business. I’m sharing in hopes it can help someone else.
I started doing pop ups without a background in the industry, other than being the sole cook at a daycare for one summer, and working the sandwich station at our college food court. I mainly cooked for my family, large gatherings here and there, and had a food blog for over a decade. So this advice (warning?) is for people who lack experience in restaurants, or learned phrases like “behind” and “fire” from watching The Bear.
I also don’t use business jargon, nor did I go to business school. This is all written by a former graphic artist that liked cooking and wanted to start something new. I watched people who succeeded and failed in this business, and used what I could to try and succeed myself. I will be using dumplings as my metaphor for whatever food/idea you’re thinking of selling.
You may be a cook, a pretty damn good one too. Your friends might say you should open a restaurant, or at least, start a pop up. I mean, how hard could it be?
Does Anyone Want What You Can Offer?
You may be thinking, who the fuck cares, I just want to cook what I want to cook. And that’s fine, BECAUSE THAT IS WHAT I DID. Sometimes when you have a vision that nobody has yet seen in this town, it doesn’t mean it won’t work. There is always a possibility it won’t work, and that is the risk you will take.
Sometimes, customers don’t know what they want yet. That is your job, to provide something they never knew they were missing.
When I said I wanted to start a dumpling pop up, I received more destructive criticism from friends and acquaintances than constructive feedback. “Nobody wants dumplings, this is Atlanta”, “Why would I buy your dumplings when I can go to H-mart and get a bag right now”, “I would never pay more than x for dumplings” “I would not drive across town for food I can get at a restaurant”, and much more shit.
I’m not telling you to ignore all criticism, but ask yourself why you are catering to these people instead of trying to find people who will understand your vision. That is your goal, not influencing people to change their minds. Do not waste your time, even if they are your loved ones. Every once in a while, a friend will congratulate you for proving them wrong, and you will feel validated, but don’t hold your breath.
Can I afford having my integrity? Is what I’m selling enough to be sustainable so I don’t have to sell out with nacho covered rainbow colored dumplings?
Just because nobody has done a dumpling pop up (that they’ve seen, because there were others before me) doesn’t mean it can’t be done. That means it’s an untapped market with some risk because there is no dumpling pop up business model to follow. I was told foodies in Atlanta wanted trendy foods, like fried chicken sandwiches dipped in cheese sauce for example, because Insta-worthy (although not particularly appetizing) items are the only way to go if you want to go viral, grow fast, make quick money. I mean, if that’s what you want to do then by all means go for it, but have fun constantly trying to keep up with trends. I know the majority of cooks/chefs value their food and won’t compromise their vision for a quick buck (it’s sort of our downfall). That’s for people who are more about the business of making money and less about the food. And damn, I hate tiptoeing the line between those two, and wish I didn’t have to play this game, but that’s how the fucking world works. Can I afford having my integrity? Is what I’m selling enough to be sustainable so I don’t have to sell out with nacho covered rainbow colored dumplings? While I love it here, sometimes I hate it here. Use that energy to produce something amazing.
While everyone can easily access dumplings at the nearest grocery store, YOU are selling handcrafted dumplings, filled with fresh ground meat/veggies, YOU are offering quality over convenience. Same goes for people complaining about the price. I have wasted hours of my life trying to convince people that never believed in me, and although I grew a tougher skin because of it, I could’ve done without it consuming my thoughts.
Sometimes, customers don’t know what they want yet. That is your job, to provide something they never knew they were missing.
In short, don’t worry if anyone wants what you can offer RIGHT NOW. Yes it helps, but it’s not necessary.
How to Build your Menu.
Pop ups are an experiment to see what works and what doesn’t. Starting out, I offered a small variety of the most popular dumplings around. Things that would stick would become standard menu items that people would expect at each pop up. Pork and cabbage potstickers, pork and chive postickers, pork and shrimp wontons. The OGs on every restaurant menu. If my menu had 5 options, one would be a specialty, such as hargow (steamed shrimp dumpling), siu mai (open faced steamed dumpling), or something completely out there (bacon cheeseburger potstickers). Specialty items are not in rotation often, and used to attract customers by providing something new and exciting to try along with the standard menu items. Test specialty items a little at a time, get used to your own groove as you incorporate them at a reasonable pace. I’ve seen pop ups do entirely different menus every time, some work as they are consistent in their chaos, and some don’t. You can’t get good at something without consistent practice, especially if you’re just getting started. Some speciality items can become standard items, and the ones that don’t can be scrapped or put on the back burner for further tweaking.
This is a pop up, not a full fledged restaurant, don’t play the wrong game.
One of the biggest mistakes I made early on was putting too many items on the menu. I wanted to offer something for everyone, but as you grow wiser you realize you can’t make everyone happy, and you surely aren’t making yourself happy juggling a dozen items under a tent in 95 degree heat in a parking lot. Some of the best restaurants have menu options that fit on a single sheet of paper. I question the menus that look like a catalog (there are exceptions to the rule, of course). Ask yourself, how many items can you execute well at a pop up? By myself, I could easily do 5-7 items. Do what you can to the best of your ability, and with the equipment you have. You may only have a couple camp stoves under a tent, or you may have a full kitchen. I’ve seen pop ups in other cities only serve 1-2 items, because those items were so good, they didn’t need anything else. This is a pop up, not a full fledged restaurant, don’t play the wrong game.
Social Media.
We live in a world where we need social media to grow our businesses. Maybe a decade ago, we could say fuck that, and go by word of mouth. But if you don’t do it and everyone else is, on top of word of mouth, how will you compete? I’m not saying it’s impossible without posting on Instagram, but it’ll definitely help.
One of my biggest pet peeves on social media is not posting the most pertinent information - Date, Time, Location. Same goes for restaurants with two pages of their vision and inspiration but not listing a phone number or where I can eat your food. I know people use social media to boost their egos and self esteem, but you’re using it as a means to grow your business. I am not sharing a beautiful photo of my dumplings for validation, or to show off, but to entice you to take a longer look, to get your attention long enough to say hey, come check out my pop up and eat my dumplings.
Please build your own hype. Don’t wait for media mentions, because they are never reliable. Promote at least two weeks before each event, post a pop up flyer, blast that flyer. You may lose a few followers each time, but that’s the cost of having your pop up on everyone’s brain. Download an app to create your own flyers, create posts with captions talking about your food. Make it as captivating as possible. Talk about your family’s recipe, describe the effort in procuring the best ingredients, your thought process in creating the menu, the struggle you’ve dealt with being a woman/minority/etc. in the culinary world, or the nostalgia felt from eating the food. Put effort into shooting beautiful, mouthwatering photos of your food to do it justice. Do some pushups before posting. It may feel like bragging but that’s because you need to be your own PR group, you’re not a restaurant who hires someone to hype them up.
As long as you’re not a raging asshole, racist or homophobe, you can be your brand, and you’ll have an easier time not trying to separate both.
I use social media to tell a story. I like sharing relatable content to build stronger connections, rather than pumping out superficial content normally seen on Instagram and Facebook. It’s not difficult to do and comes naturally. You want the kind of customers who support the person and the dream, as well as the food. Not just the food. Grow your following with people like that. As long as you’re not a raging asshole, racist or homophobe, don’t be afraid to be your brand, you’ll have an easier time not trying to separate both. I know a lot of bigger businesses play it safe and keep quiet on their views, but as a small business, it can be used to our advantage. Sharing your voice separates you from the sea of homogenous non-partisan companies that you can’t differentiate from one another.
It’s not about the amount of followers but the quality of your audience.
Despite what a lot of people think, I am not a social media expert. I know how to gradually gain followers who believe in my vision, but I don’t think I’ve ever gone viral. I prefer a steady organic growth I can keep up with in my business by posting relatable content. No annoying flashy reels or trends. Hell, I don’t even post consistently. Whether you have 700 or 10,000 followers, people will show up for you. It’s not about the amount of followers but the quality of your audience. I’ve seen pop ups with less than 1,000 followers sell out within a couple hours. Large numbers can only help you so much.
Lastly, fuck social media. I know, I just told you how you can use it to grow your business and make strong connections. It can be a nasty place as well. Sometimes when I’m feeling my lowest, the negativity is all I can see there. Take breaks from Instagram because it is not the real world, and isn’t healthy when it’s so consuming of your energy. Look at your analytics to gauge your next moves, but don’t obsess over them.
Where Can You Pop Up?
Breweries, Farmers Markets, Restaurants, and Festivals to name a few.
Breweries are a great starting point because most of them don’t charge you a fee, and always need food because they don’t offer it themselves. The environment is laid back, people who hang out and drink are more apt to buy your food when there’s no other food in sight. Be warned - the pop up scene is saturated if you’re starting in Atlanta, as every pop up has the same idea as you.
Farmers Markets are another great place to pop up if they have a lot of foot traffic. Not a lot of farmers markets have hot food vendors, so this is a nice contrast to the regular vendors selling produce and crafts. Some markets charge a fee, some don’t. And if you aren’t a morning person, you will be now.
Restaurants and Cafés are nice if you want a kitchen, or to simply pop up indoors. They will charge you a fee, but also offer help you wouldn’t get anywhere else. A FOH, BOH, and advice from seasoned industry folk are some examples.
Festivals….I normally stay away from these, or any large markets in general. They usually charge hundreds more, only providing you a 10x10’ space for your own tent, you’re competing with dozens of other food vendors (sometimes serving nearly identical items). I’ve once had a venue ask me to obtain the necessary permits and licenses for a food truck (I obviously didn’t have a food truck) as if I simply had $2650+ lying around. While some people can kill it in this scene, and make 4x more than at a brewery, a rainy day can set you back, barely able to cover your losses, because you’re still required to pay those high fees, where at a brewery you aren’t. Festivals are risky. Deposits are usually non-refundable as well.
Pre-orders or Walk-ins? Both work in different ways. Pre-orders enable you to know exactly how much food to prep so you can minimize food waste. Walk-ins allow for people who can’t commit to ordering ahead of time and missing your deadlines, and work well for breweries or farmers markets. I like doing pre-orders for ticketed events at a restaurant when I’m doing something special, like a Lunar New Year dinner.
You may want try out all these venues to see what works for you. I don’t find I can grow my brand doing festivals because people don’t remember one vendor from the next. It’s hard making strong connections with customers in a chaotic environment. In the end, do what works for you.
Business Licenses, Commercial Kitchens, and all the not so fun stuff.
This is the last thing I like to think about when having a business. But like I tell my kids (and husband) - sometimes we need to do things to get them done, not because it’s fun. I don’t like washing dishes, cleaning the bathroom, or making doctors appointments, as much as I don’t like doing quickbooks, keeping up to date on my licenses, certifications, and other admin work that take time from funner things, like cooking.
If you’re just starting out and want to stay underground, I’m not a snitch and mind my business. Pop ups are a weird place to be, and rules where we live are not quite defined, in what we are or aren’t allowed to do. Venues also run with their own rules (or no rules at all). Just because I want to follow some rules doesn’t mean I think the system is right, and wouldn’t call anyone out for not doing the same. I honestly believe the system doesn’t help small businesses succeed. But for personal reasons (mean spirited competitors, to be specific) I figured better safe than sorry. What may seem like an obstacle at first is actually a step to create a clearer path for your business.
I only decided to become legit once I realized I wanted to do this for at least one year. I wouldn’t have cared if I was only doing a few pop ups then fading out.
If you decide to start with the paperwork, it becomes a snowball of paperwork, with one leading to another. It probably took me a couple of months to become ‘legit’. Here is a great article on the step by step process. No point in me struggling to stay awake talking about the not so fun stuff when someone else did a great job explaining it. The order of the process may differ depending on which state you’re doing business in, but once you start, be prepared to go all in. I had to get a business license, ServSafe certification, commercial kitchen, food insurance, quickbooks for bookkeeping, a separate credit card for business, to name a few. It was a drag, but if anyone wanted to come for me, I had my receipts.
Employees.
You don’t need them.
Kidding. Since I lacked a network of industry people when I started, it was pretty difficult to get going, because I had no experience. After 6 years of making more mistakes than I’m proud to admit, I realized I was better off cooking solo for a number of reasons.
You’ll have well-intentioned friends that offer to help because they want you to succeed. But not all of them have worked in the industry, and while you appreciate their help they can hinder your growth, things can get awkward because you may avoid confrontation when something goes wrong (“I don’t want to ruin our friendship”) or they won’t treat you as a business owner running a business, hence not doing things your way. I’ve once had a friend demand 50% of the credit for every dish because they came up with a concept. I’m more than happy giving credit where it’s due, but not when someone thinks they’re entitled to something they don’t deserve. And I’ve ended friendships from this.
Don’t take help from any random friends when you’re desperate, but if you must, you better trust them. Eventually I met great people who got their hands dirty and did an unbelievable job, and learned from their experience in the industry.
Good intentions aren’t enough to make for good business.
I can tell who truly cares about my product based on how they plate my dishes. They will plate it beautifully each time, even during rush, even when I’m not looking. If they carelessly flip the pan of dumplings upside down onto a plate, wrappers torn and fillings out, despite telling them how to do it correctly numerous times, I know they don’t care.
And not everyone cares about your business as much as you do. Good intentions aren’t enough to make for good business. In short, try not to hire friends, but if you do, they better be in the industry and have your best interests at heart. Fellow pop up vendors are great help if they grace you with their presence the one or two days they’re free and willing, and the help can be reciprocated.
After 6 years I’ve gotten into the groove of cooking solo, with my kids running our own little FOH - one manages the frozen dumpling drops and the other runs the register. They’ve grown up in the dumpling business and I’m immensely proud that my 11 year old can handle taking orders while simultaneously managing inventory better than the majority of adults I know. It’s not perfect, but they haven’t messed up to the point of giving away 17 orders of wontons, nor come in hungover ready to pick a fight with a customer, or me. Totally *not* speaking from experience.
Cooking solo also sharpened my instincts, I got into my own rhythm, and improved my organizational skills. Why would I offer 12 poorly executed items by multiple people when I can offer 5 well executed items myself? One could argue that I just can’t manage people. Maybe I can’t, and that’s something I would need to work on in the future if I ever want to expand. I realize that there are still weaknesses in my business, and glad to acknowledge and work through this in a pop up stage, not as a restaurant. While I don’t have all the answers on how to manage employees, I know what my limitations are. Good help is hard to find.
This also goes back to what I said up above, this is a pop up, not a restaurant, don’t play the wrong game. And quality is more important than quantity. Fine tune as much as you can before expanding and inviting other people to help you.
Be Prepared to Lose a lot of Friends.
Most of these people will never show up at a single pop up, like your social media posts, or clap when you’re published in a cookbook. It will hurt like hell, even years later.
At some point, you’re in the thick of it, and a lot of your friendships trailed off, maybe you haven’t had time to talk to people for weeks, or even months. Your friends will feel abandoned, maybe they’re jealous, maybe their true colors are finally showing because a part of them was waiting for you to fail. Not everyone will be a cheerleader for you. I didn’t establish boundaries with a lot of people close to me, and it blew up in my face when I started 6 years ago. Being a stay at home mom for years, I put 100% of my energy into motherhood and my friendships, leaving very little time to work on myself, and especially on starting a business.
When I started focusing on myself, I was called selfish. I lost a best friend - a business owner herself, someone who at one point considered me to be a legal guardian for her daughter, and her last words to me were “good for you but I won’t be there to support it”. Not everyone is understanding and patient. Most of these people will never show up at a single pop up, like your social media posts, or clap when you’re published in a cookbook. It will hurt like hell, even years later. Accept the new path you’ve taken, and keep moving forward.
You Will Make New Friends.
Giving more than you are able to will drain you physically and emotionally. These new friendship dynamics will be the new normal.
You will meet lots of people in the industry that share a mutual understanding of everything you are going through. They will be your mentors, people you can commiserate with, they are your community. Because of your ever increasing hectic schedule that doesn’t leave a lot of time for hanging out, your friendships may be a bit different now.
They might be Instagram followers who watched you from afar for years, who know more about your views, your business, your food than even your closest family members. They might be fellow food vendors from the pop up circuit that you met only once, and now keep up with each others’ businesses, sharing advice, cooking techniques, and things to be cautious of.
You may rarely talk to these people on a day to day basis but they will be there for you because they ‘get it’. And that is enough, because you don’t have enough time for more traditional friendships. Giving more than you are able to will drain you physically and emotionally. These new friendship dynamics will be the new normal.
You will truly hate cooking sometimes.
We all know that turning a hobby into a side gig (or full-time gig) sucks the fun out of anything. I used to smile as I cooked a dish or two in my kitchen, and that became a constant internal screaming as I was up at 3am every Saturday morning cooking 72 cups of sticky rice, 20 lbs of noodles, and 600 dumplings before showing up at a farmers market with a smile on my face.
Truly, truly love what you do before you start, so that love can deplete little by little throughout time. The more love you start with the longer run you’ll have in this business. I kid I kid. Maybe I am a little serious. I mean, I did choose a masochistic lifestyle here.
Trust Yourself.
In the end, you only have yourself. Trust your instincts and intuition, take what you can get from what I’ve shared, what others have shared, and do it your particular way. The best advice I’ve ever received was from someone who told me not to trust anyone’s advice, not even theirs. Because really, who the fuck are they? Who the fuck am I?
Wisdom is using experience and knowledge to make good decisions; you’ll experience successes and failures along the way in order to gain it. Give yourself time to reflect on your strengths and weaknesses, ask yourself if you should’ve trusted your intuition when you didn’t. None of this was meant as a guide, but rather how to be autonomous.
This is the End of my Post.
I hope this helps you speed through/skip some steps to avoid wasting time. I’m not better or smarter than you, we are all at different stages of experience, that’s it. Some of my subscribers are miles ahead of me in the business (I read through the email list) and may have heard/experienced everything I’ve said already.
Thanks for reading.